Visiting regions with a strong cacao heritage offers a chance to experience local traditions and flavors. From markets and street vendors to specialty shops and fancy restaurants, I love to dive in, explore and even let myself be the tourist to see what is being shared. There are many different stories and approaches to cacao, in which facts and myths are mixed, importantly it's still alive!
Observations from Chiapas and Oaxaca:
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Most cacao creations are referred to as chocolate and almost always pre-sugared.
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Less sweet or unsweetened versions are called amargo (bitter).
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Both water and milk are common bases for cacao drinks, along with corn-based variations.
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Pure 100% cacao is harder to find, usually available in specialty shops.
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Traditional cacao drinks often contain coarsely ground cacao, creating a grainy texture.
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Grinding methods vary. Some blend the nibs into a rough paste, while others use mills similar to those for grinding corn (you see this in Guatemala and Mexico mostly). This is much easier and cheaper than refining it smoother, and also makes sense to what is available (incl less stable power supply).
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Finer ground cacao is typically used for cooking or chocolate making and more expensive.
The high sugar content in mainstream cacao drinks always stands out. Talking about pre-Hispanic cacao traditions, honey is mentioned as a sweetener or that cacao was consumed as a pure, bitter drink. Some mention that chocolatl derives from Nahuatl words meaning "bitter drink" or "bitter water."
Favourite traditional Cacao recipes
Among the many drinks I tried, Pochotl stood out the most. It is corn based with cacao, and a very thick layer of foam on top. One of the ingredients is the cacomécatl vine that helps stabilize the foam. You drink it first and later scoop up the foam, yummy! The best version I had was at a more fancy restaurant that honored traditional techniques, allowing the natural flavors to shine rather than masking them with excess sugar.
Another favorite is Tejate, also a corn-based cacao drink widely sold in markets. Served cold. Over-sugared? Yes. Refreshing and energizing on a hot day? Absolutely!
For most chocolate use, cacao quality is often compromised imo. Here you notice the importance of good post harvest processing. Including the fermentation and over-roasting can dull cacao’s complexity. It makes sense to use more sugar to mask off-flavors from lower-quality cacao and dislike of pure cacao with the intense bitters.
Some traditional cacao-based drinks are Tejate, Pozontle, Champurrado, Pozol, Chocolate Oaxaqueño, Tascalate, Balché. You can quite easily find more information about them and maybe even try to make some recipes to try.
Some cool ingredients worth mentioning are
Sapote seeds, although they require roasting to reduce toxicity; Flor de cacao, tea like leaves used for aroma and texture; Corn as a foundational ingredient in indigenous cacao drinks; Cacomécatl vine helps stabilize frothy cacao preparations; Achiote adds a reddish hue and subtle earthy flavor; Vanilla, yumm!; Hoja Santa, anise-like flavor; and of course all kinds of more familiar spices.
The Cacao Legacy of Chiapas and Oaxaca
Chiapas and Oaxaca have a deep cacao history, dating back thousands of years to the Olmec, Maya, Zapotec, and Mexica (Aztec) civilizations. Cacao was more than food. It was a ceremonial offering, a currency, and a key part of spiritual and social traditions.
Many ancient cacao-growing practices continue today, with cacao genetics shaped over centuries. One particularly smooth variety I encountered was a soft, white cacao. When prepared with water, it had an almost milky texture, reflecting generations of careful cultivation. The Maya, known for their expertise in architecture, agriculture and astronomy, were master cacao cultivators. It was valued so much that it was often used as tribute, a currency paid to ruling powers.
A Living Tradition
Exploring cacao at its source keeps being insightful, a joy and very inspiring. The different traditional recipes offer a glimpse into centuries of cultivation, ritual, and cultural exchange. Also I’m very happy with the approach that we have to cacao and healthy food today. Enjoying its pure benefits with special quality cacao that is delicious in its pure form.
Oaxaca and Chiapas are absolutely stunning regions to travel through, with vast mountains, deep jungle, stretching out to a beautiful coast. Of course with cacao growing where it likes best, in hot and humid climates. Being enjoyed by many!
